Human beings stand in awe of the Most High, the Creator of all creation, whose design is revealed in the distinct beauty of Black people. The warmth of the sun seems to honor melanin-rich skin, enriching its deep spectrum of tones, while textured and coiled hair responds to heat and environment with patterns as intricate as they are intentional. In this interplay of biology and creation, nothing appears accidental—each feature reflects resilience, adaptation, and divine artistry. Black people, in their varied shades and crown-like hair textures, embody a profound testimony of beauty, strength, and sacred design within creation.
Across time and cultures, the human body has been interpreted not only as a biological structure but also as a site of meaning, symbolism, and identity. In particular, melanin and Black hair texture have been central to debates surrounding race, beauty, and cultural valuation.

From a scientific standpoint, melanin is a naturally occurring pigment produced by melanocytes and is primarily responsible for skin, hair, and eye coloration. However, within Afrocentric intellectual traditions, melanin has also been discussed as a symbol of African continuity, resilience, and spiritual identity (Asante, 2003). These dual interpretations—biological and cultural—highlight the layered meanings assigned to human variation.

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Melanin: Biological Function and Cultural Interpretation

In biomedical science, melanin is primarily understood as a photoprotective pigment that absorbs ultraviolet (UV) radiation and reduces DNA damage in skin cells (Jablonski & Chaplin, 2010). It also plays a role in regulating vitamin D synthesis through its interaction with 7-dehydrocholesterol in the skin.

While some popular and cultural writings have extended melanin’s meaning into metaphysical or spiritual domains, such claims are not supported by empirical biological research. Instead, they are best understood as symbolic frameworks through which communities interpret identity and embodiment.

Afrocentric scholarship, however, often emphasizes melanin as a cultural signifier of African-descended peoples’ historical adaptation to high-sun environments and as a metaphor for resilience in the face of social marginalization (Asante, 2003). In this sense, melanin becomes not only a biological pigment but also a narrative of survival and continuity.

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Black Hair: Biology, Structure, and Misinterpretation

Dermatological research shows that hair texture varies due to follicle shape, cross-sectional geometry, and curvature. African-descended hair is often characterized by tightly coiled or elliptical structures, while other populations may exhibit oval or round hair shafts (Callender et al., 2004; Khumalo et al., 2000).

These differences are structural, not hierarchical. Scientific literature does not support claims of biological superiority among hair types. Instead, hair diversity reflects human evolutionary adaptation and genetic variation.

Historically, however, tightly coiled hair textures were often misinterpreted through colonial frameworks that associated straight hair with beauty and civility. Scholars argue that such interpretations were socially constructed rather than biologically grounded, reinforcing racialized hierarchies of appearance (Rosenthal, 2004).

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Afrocentric Identity and the Politics of Hair

Within Afrocentric and diasporic cultural thought, Black hair has been reclaimed as a symbol of identity, resistance, and aesthetic sovereignty. The natural hair movement, for example, has encouraged individuals of African descent to embrace their natural textures as an affirmation of self-definition rather than conformity to Eurocentric beauty standards.

This cultural shift reflects what social psychologists describe as identity reclamation—where historically marginalized groups reinterpret stigmatized traits as sources of pride and cultural meaning. In this framework, hair becomes more than biology; it becomes narrative, memory, and expression.

As one metaphor often used in Afrocentric discourse suggests, coiled hair can be seen as a “crown,” symbolizing dignity, ancestry, and rootedness in African heritage. While metaphorical, such language reflects the emotional and cultural significance attached to physical identity.

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Hair Care, Science, and Misconceptions

Research in cosmetic science emphasizes that tightly coiled hair textures require specific care due to curl pattern structure, including moisture retention challenges and increased susceptibility to mechanical breakage (Umar et al., 2015). Effective hair care practices focus on hydration, reduced friction, and protective styling.

Contrary to widespread myths, all hair types are biologically “normal,” and no texture is inherently superior. Instead, differences in structure necessitate different maintenance approaches. Scientific literature emphasizes inclusivity in understanding hair diversity rather than ranking it.

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Sociocultural Perception and Beauty Standards

Hair texture has long been influenced by cultural standards of beauty, many of which have been shaped by historical power dynamics and media representation. Sociological studies show that Eurocentric beauty ideals have influenced perceptions of professionalism, attractiveness, and social acceptance in multiple societies.

The phenomenon of “texturism”—prejudice based on hair texture—has been documented as a contemporary extension of these historical biases. In response, cultural scholars and activists advocate for expanded definitions of beauty that reflect global diversity.

Within lived experience, many individuals report external questioning or assumptions regarding natural hair length, authenticity, or manageability. These experiences highlight the intersection between biology and social perception.

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Melanin and Black hair exist at the intersection of biology and meaning. Scientifically, they are natural variations within the human species, shaped by evolutionary adaptation and genetic diversity. Culturally, however, they carry profound symbolic weight, particularly within Afrocentric frameworks that emphasize identity, resilience, and historical continuity.

A balanced scholarly perspective recognizes both realities: the empirical findings of biology and the lived, cultural meanings that communities attach to physical traits. In doing so, it affirms that human diversity is not hierarchical but expressive—reflecting both nature and narrative.

In The Chemical Key to Black Greatness, Carol Barnes describes melanin in symbolic language, referring to it as a “civilizing chemical” associated with emotional balance, creativity, and vitality. While such interpretations reflect a cultural and philosophical worldview, scientific research defines melanin primarily as a biological pigment responsible for determining the color of skin, hair, and eyes.

From a biomedical standpoint, melanin plays a well-established protective role in human biology. In skin, it helps absorb and dissipate ultraviolet (UV) radiation, reducing DNA damage and contributing to the body’s adaptation to environments with high sun exposure. In this sense, melanin is part of a broader evolutionary system that supports human survival across diverse climates rather than indicating biological hierarchy.

Within discussions of Black hair, melanin is often referenced alongside the structural uniqueness of tightly coiled hair textures. Dermatological research shows that African-descended hair typically exhibits curved follicle structures and elliptical or flattened shaft shapes, which contribute to curl formation and texture variation (Callender et al., 2004; Khumalo et al., 2000). These structural differences are not indicators of superiority or inferiority but examples of human biological diversity.

Afrocentric scholarship and cultural discourse have often extended the meaning of melanin beyond biology, using it as a symbol of identity, resilience, and historical continuity among African-descended peoples. In this interpretive framework, Black hair—particularly natural textures such as coils, curls, and kinks—is frequently described as a cultural crown, representing heritage, strength, and self-definition.

However, it is important to distinguish metaphor from empirical science. Claims that melanin functions as a sensory receptor, transmits cosmic energy, or enhances neurological processing are not supported by peer-reviewed research in biology or neuroscience. Likewise, assertions of genetic superiority or inferiority among human populations are rejected by contemporary genetics, which affirms that all humans share the same core cognitive and biological capacities.

What remains scientifically supported is that hair texture variation is the result of genetic diversity and evolutionary adaptation. What remains culturally significant is how those biological traits are interpreted, valued, or devalued within society. In this way, Black hair exists at the intersection of biology and meaning—both a physical structure shaped by nature and a cultural expression shaped by history.

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Melanin refines the nervous system in such a way that messages from the brain reach other areas of the body most rapidly in dark people, the primary race. The abundance of melanin in our skin gives us genetic inferiority. We are physically stronger. Mentally sounder. Spiritually more connected.

Woolly hair is the tree that points to the heavens.

His head and his hair were white like wool, as white as snow; and his eyes were as a flame of fire; Revelation 1:14 KJV.

Our roots run long straight to the sky. Woolly hair can withstand heat at high temperatures.

Black Hair Morphology, History, and Cultural Interpretation: A Scholarly Afrocentric Reading

Human hair texture represents one of the most visible forms of human biological diversity. Within Afrocentric interpretation, tightly coiled or “woolly” hair has often been described metaphorically as rising upward “like a crown or roots reaching toward the sky,” symbolizing resilience, identity, and ancestral continuity. While this poetic framing reflects cultural meaning rather than scientific description, dermatological research provides a clearer biological understanding of hair structure and variation.

Hair Morphology and Structural Diversity

Scientific studies confirm that there are no fundamental biochemical differences between major human hair types; rather, variation exists in morphology and follicular structure. Callender et al. (2004) note that African-descended hair typically presents an elliptical or flattened cross-sectional shape, while Caucasian hair is more oval and Asian hair tends to be round. Additionally, follicle curvature differs, with more curved follicles commonly associated with tightly coiled hair textures (Callender et al., 2004).

These structural differences influence curl pattern, elasticity, and susceptibility to mechanical stress but do not indicate superiority or inferiority. Instead, they reflect evolutionary adaptation and genetic variation across human populations.

Physical Properties and Hair Behavior

Khumalo et al. (2000) provide further insight into the structural characteristics of African hair, noting its tendency toward tight curling, knot formation, and breakage patterns associated with mechanical stress. Their light and scanning electron microscopic analysis found that African hair often exhibits longitudinal fissures and breakage, which may contribute to reduced length retention when subjected to frequent combing or tension. However, the study also observed that the cuticle structure itself remains intact across racial groups, indicating shared biological composition.

Importantly, Khumalo et al. (2000) emphasize that many observed differences in breakage patterns are influenced not only by intrinsic structure but also by grooming practices, environmental exposure, and hair care methods. The authors further suggest that minimizing mechanical stress and reducing knot formation may improve length retention across tightly coiled hair types.

Additional dermatological research has noted that variations in sebum distribution along the hair shaft and curl geometry can influence moisture retention, contributing to differences in perceived dryness among tightly coiled textures (Umar et al., 2015).

Mixed Hair and Identity: The Science and Cultural Meaning of Textured Diversity

“Mixed hair” (often used in everyday language to describe hair textures commonly seen in people of mixed African and European ancestry) is not a single uniform category. In a scholarly sense, hair texture is better understood as a continuum of traits shaped by genetics, follicle structure, and individual variation, rather than a fixed “type” tied strictly to racial labels.

From a dermatological perspective, hair texture differences are primarily influenced by follicle shape, curl pattern, and hair shaft structure. Research shows that tightly coiled hair often grows from more curved follicles and tends to have an elliptical or flattened cross-section, while straighter textures are associated with rounder shafts and straighter follicles (Callender et al., 2004; Khumalo et al., 2000). In individuals of mixed African and European ancestry, these traits may combine in highly variable ways, producing hair that can appear wavy, loosely curled, or multi-textured across different sections of the scalp.

This variation is sometimes socially labeled as “mixed hair,” but scientifically it is more accurate to describe it as phenotypic variation in hair morphology within a single human population, since all humans share the same basic biological structures that produce hair. The differences we observe are gradual rather than categorical.

Culturally, hair texture in mixed-heritage populations has also carried social meaning. In many societies, looser curl patterns have historically been viewed as closer to Eurocentric beauty standards, which has influenced perceptions of “good hair” versus “coarse” or “kinky” hair. Scholars in sociology and anthropology describe this as part of broader systems of beauty hierarchy and texturism, where certain textures are socially privileged while others are devalued.

At the same time, lived experience shows that mixed-texture hair is often versatile but also complex to manage, because different strands on the same head may respond differently to moisture, humidity, and styling methods. This is why many hair care practices focus on moisture balance, gentle detangling, and minimizing mechanical stress, regardless of ancestry.

Importantly, modern genetics does not support rigid racial divisions in hair biology. Human hair variation is the result of polygenic inheritance, meaning multiple genes contribute to texture, density, and growth patterns. As a result, individuals of any background can display a wide range of hair types.

Ultimately, what is often called “mixed hair” is best understood not as a separate or superior category, but as part of the full spectrum of human hair diversity—reflecting both shared biology and the complexity of ancestry, adaptation, and inheritance.

Historical Classification and Social Interpretation

Hair texture has also been historically interpreted through racialized frameworks. Konishi (2008) documents how early taxonomic systems, including those influenced by Linnaean classification, contributed to racialized descriptions of hair types such as “woolly” or “frizzled.” These classifications were later embedded in broader colonial narratives that associated physical traits with hierarchical human categorization.

The Oxford English Dictionary traces the use of “woolly” hair in reference to African-descended populations as early as 1697 in colonial-era descriptions, where it was often used in derogatory contexts. Such language reflects historical processes of dehumanization rather than scientific understanding.

Similarly, eighteenth-century anthropological discourse occasionally framed African-descended hair as fundamentally different in a way that supported racialized theories of human difference (Diderot & d’Alembert, 1765, as cited in Rosenthal, 2004). Modern scholarship rejects these interpretations as culturally constructed rather than biologically valid.

Afrocentric Reframing and Cultural Meaning

Within Afrocentric and diasporic cultural thought, tightly coiled hair has been reclaimed as a symbol of identity, heritage, and resistance to Eurocentric beauty standards. While historical narratives once stigmatized textured hair as “unmanageable” or “other,” contemporary cultural movements emphasize its uniqueness and aesthetic value.

The concept of “good hair,” often socially associated with straighter textures, has been widely critiqued in sociological literature as a product of historical beauty hierarchies rather than biological fact. In reality, all hair types are structurally valid expressions of human genetic diversity.

From this perspective, Afro-textured hair can be understood not only through a biological lens but also as a culturally meaningful expression of identity shaped by history, perception, and lived experience.

Black hair, particularly in its tightly coiled forms, reflects a complex intersection of biology, history, and cultural meaning. Dermatological science explains its structural properties in terms of follicle shape, curl geometry, and mechanical response, while historical scholarship highlights how these features were socially interpreted through racialized frameworks. Afrocentric perspectives, in turn, reclaim these characteristics as symbols of identity and continuity.

A balanced scholarly approach recognizes both dimensions: the empirical science of hair morphology and the cultural narratives that shape its meaning across generations.

‘The African hair shafts were enclosed by a well-preserved cuticle similar to that observed for the other racial groups. ‘The most significant feature was that the majority of the tips of the African hair had fractured ends …Similarly, the basal end also exhibited evidence of breakage in contrast to the Caucasian and Asian samples in which the majority of hairs had attached roots.’

‘From these observations, it could be proposed that any procedure that reduces knotting of hair and/or the need for combing would result in an increase in the length of the hair by reducing the incidence of breaks in the hair shafts.’

This eighteenth-century definition and conceptualization of African hair as ‘woolly’ intersected with slavery discourses that dehumanized the African body to justify its abject treatment. The Oxford English Dictionary indicates that this derogatory term signifying ‘the short, tightly-curled hair of Negroid peoples’ was first used in a runaway slave advertisement in 1697. This type of hair was also ascribed to sexual connotations, according to Allan Peterkin, ‘frizzy’ hair was seen as ‘demonic, licentious, and public.’

When I reflect on Black hair care practices, I often hear many Black women say that perms, pressing combs, and chemical relaxers make their hair more manageable. Historically, chemical straightening processes have been widely used as a response to both styling preference and social pressure around hair texture. It is often asked who invented the relaxer, and while early chemical straightening methods emerged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, historical records more accurately associate early commercial hair relaxers with figures such as Garrett A. Morgan and other inventors who contributed to chemical hair processing technologies during that era.

These practices have had a long cultural presence, and over time, they have been both embraced and criticized. In contemporary media, including Chris Rock’s documentary Good Hair, relaxers are sometimes referred to colloquially as “creamy crack,” highlighting concerns about dependency, chemical exposure, and the cultural pressures surrounding hair straightening practices. At the same time, many women note that, when properly maintained, chemically treated hair can appear long and healthy, which reflects the complexity of personal hair experiences rather than a single universal outcome.

Within broader sociological analysis, Black hair has also been identified as a site of “texturism,” where certain textures are socially privileged over others. This raises a larger question: why has Black hair so often been subjected to scrutiny, regulation, and comparison? Historically, Eurocentric beauty standards have influenced perceptions of straight, silky textures as more desirable, which has contributed to long-standing social conditioning around hair preference and presentation.

From a sociological perspective, these beauty hierarchies did not emerge in isolation but developed through centuries of cultural influence, including colonial history and media representation. As a result, many people—both within and outside the Black community—have internalized preferences that elevate straighter textures as the aesthetic ideal. However, contemporary dermatological research affirms that tightly coiled, curly, and straight hair are all variations of human biological diversity, each with distinct structural properties rather than hierarchical value.

In everyday experience, I have often encountered assumptions about my own hair. With mid-back length hair, I have been asked questions such as, “Is all of that your real hair?” or “Do you have mixed ancestry?” These questions, while sometimes intended as compliments, often reflect underlying assumptions about what Black hair is expected to look like. Historically, such perceptions are tied to broader cultural narratives that have questioned the ability of Black women to grow long, healthy, natural hair without alteration or supplementation.

Yet, scientifically, tightly coiled hair exhibits a spiral follicle structure that contributes to its unique curl pattern, volume, and directional growth. Dermatological studies describe Black hair as often elliptical in cross-section with curved follicles, which explains its tendency to coil and expand outward rather than fall flat. When properly cared for with moisture balance and low mechanical stress, coiled hair can be highly versatile, capable of multiple styling forms—from tightly coiled to stretched or straightened states.

In this sense, Black hair is not static; it is adaptive and expressive. It carries both biological uniqueness and cultural meaning. It can be styled in ways that reflect personal identity, aesthetic choice, and cultural expression. Rather than being defined by limitation, it reflects versatility and structural complexity.

At a personal level, I experience this connection most intimately in everyday moments—such as when I run my fingers through my hair in the shower and feel the curls respond to water and movement. There is a sense of familiarity and embodiment in that experience, as my hair frames my face and moves with me. At times, I notice how others respond to it as something notable or distinctive, which reflects the broader cultural attention placed on Black hair.

For many Black women, hair is not merely aesthetic; it is deeply tied to identity, dignity, and self-perception. In cultural language, it is often described as a “crown,” symbolizing beauty and presence. However, it is important to recognize that while hair can carry symbolic meaning, it should not be elevated into something to be idolized or judged. Instead, it should be understood as something to be cared for, respected, and nurtured.

Ultimately, I see Black hair as something that deserves care rooted in knowledge rather than pressure, and appreciation rather than distortion. When properly understood and maintained, it reflects both biological design and cultural depth. My perspective is that we should honor what the Most High has created by embracing our natural hair with understanding, stewardship, and respect rather than comparison or conformity.

TAKING CARE OF COILLY HAIR or CURLY HAIR

How to take care of curly and coily hair?

My Q & A with my hairdresser, Diana King, note she has natural hair all the way down her back.

Q: What do you think about this Good hair, Bad hair situation among black people?

Diane: I think black people are some of the most ignorant people on earth; surely, they have bought into the lie of slavery. All hair is good; if it grows out of your head, it is good. What has ruined our noses is the perms and the weaves.

Q: What are some tips for the maintenance and growth of natural hair?

Diane:

1. There is a huge misconception that black hair is coarse, strong, and can take a beating. That is true; in fact, black hair is the most fragile of all hair types. My Asian clients have the strongest hair, very coarse, and now their hair can take a beating.

2. Co-washes your hair once a week with a natural moisturizing conditioner and not shampoo because it dries out the hair, which can cause breakage.

3. Keep your hair moisturized with a natural moisturizer and seal the ends with olive oil. Choose natural organic products and try to avoid products with mineral oils and petroleum oils. Natural oils like almond, coconut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, and jojoba oil are much better.

4. If you use heat styling products (blow dryers, flat irons) on your hair, try to cut it down to 1-2 times a month if you can, and make sure you use a heat protection shampoo and/or moisturizer, or a good heat protective serum/spray on your hair before flat ironing or curling.

5. Make sure you sleep on a satin pillowcase or tie your hair up in a silk scarf so your hair can stay healthy and won’t break or tear. Silk or satin pillowcases, bonnets, and scarves will protect your hair from breakage while rubbing against certain fabrics that cause breakage.

6. Moisturize your ends nightly with coconut oil before you go to sleep

7. Once a month, only use a protein treatment for deep conditioning.

8. To extend hair growth, I recommend a diet of fresh fruits and vegetables and exercise weekly to get the blood flowing to your hair.

9. Massage your scalp a few times a week for extra blood flow for hair growth.

10. Use a wide-tooth comb to comb your hair; stop buying bristle brushes or thin combs, which will get caught in your hair and snap it off. Go for low maintenance. We should never comb our hair every day; just detangle it with our fingers after applying moisturizer.

Unfortunately, that is the gospel that most black or brown women preach. The truth is that if you keep all the weaves and chemicals off your hair, it will grow with some easy maintenance, and it will grow in no time. A black woman’s hair will grow if she maintains it healthy and nourished with the right natural products. Contrary to popular belief, the black woman is not alone; there are some cases where the white woman’s hair won’t grow either, or it’s fragile — Diane (my hairdresser)

The Curse

Moreover, the LORD saith, Because the daughters of Zion are haughty, and walk with stretched forth necks and wanton eyes, walking and mincing as they go, and making a tinkling with their feet: Therefore the Lord will smite with a scab the crown of the head of the daughters of Zion, and the LORD will discover their secret parts. — Isaiah 3: 16-17 – 

Because of the haughtiness toward our men, our head was smitten with baldness, which would explain the lust for long hair. We had the beauty everyone wanted at that time. We are the Daughters of Zion. That was a curse! Now today… I believe that curse is lifted… With all the beautiful hair treatments, perms, hair styling, relaxers, weaves, chemicals from shampoos, our diet, hormones, what we drink, rest, environment, etc. All these elements affect the health of our hair. What is paramount is the way we care for our hair. Is long hair possible? Yes.

Asha Mandela, widely recognized for her exceptionally long locked hair, has been reported as having one of the longest documented sets of locs in the world, measuring over 20 feet in length, with her record noted by Guinness World Records in 2009. Her hair has often been discussed in media and cultural spaces as an example of the possibilities of long-term natural hair care and dedication to loc maintenance.

More broadly, many individuals within the Black community today are embracing a renewed appreciation for natural hair. Hair growth is a biological process shared by all people, and when properly cared for, it reflects both health and personal expression. This renewed attention to natural hair care has become especially visible within the natural hair movement, which encourages individuals to care for and embrace their hair in its unaltered state.

Within this cultural shift, many Black women describe a deeper sense of identity affirmation, self-acceptance, and connection to heritage as they move away from restrictive beauty norms. From a cultural and, for some, faith-informed perspective, this movement is often understood as part of a broader awakening toward self-definition and appreciation of natural features, including tightly coiled and textured hair.

Overall, the natural hair movement reflects a growing awareness of hair as both a biological feature and a cultural expression—one that continues to inspire conversations about identity, beauty, and self-care within the Black community.

But if a woman has long hair, it is a glory to her: for her hair is given her for a covering.1 Corinthians 11:15 KJV

When I reflect on Black hair, I recognize how often it becomes the focus of what is commonly referred to as “texturism,” a form of bias that privileges certain hair textures over others. This raises an important question for me: why has Black hair so often been subjected to scrutiny, regulation, and comparison across social and cultural contexts?

Historically, Black hair has existed within systems shaped by colonial influence and Eurocentric beauty standards. Over time, these standards have contributed to widespread preferences for straighter, silkier textures, often positioning them as more socially acceptable or desirable. In response, many Black individuals have adopted a range of hair practices—including chemical straightening, heat styling, and protective extensions—as both aesthetic choices and adaptive responses to social pressure.

From a sociological perspective, this history has contributed to what some scholars describe as internalized beauty hierarchy, where certain textures are elevated while tightly coiled hair is devalued. However, contemporary dermatological research is clear that all hair types—coiled, wavy, and straight—are expressions of human biological diversity. Differences in texture are primarily the result of follicle shape, shaft structure, and genetic variation, not hierarchy or superiority.

Within cultural discourse, there is also a strong movement toward reclaiming natural hair as an expression of identity and self-definition. This includes rejecting the idea that natural Black hair requires alteration to be considered professional, beautiful, or acceptable. Instead, many now emphasize care, health, and acceptance of natural texture as forms of empowerment.

At the same time, it is important to be careful with scientific claims. Ideas suggesting that tightly coiled hair functions as an “antenna” for electromagnetic energy or that it is biologically superior in function are not supported by peer-reviewed research in biology or physics. It is supported is that tightly coiled hair has a unique structural form that influences moisture retention, styling patterns, and maintenance needs.

I also think about how deeply these ideas are embedded in everyday experiences. For many Black women, hair becomes a site of negotiation between personal expression and social expectation—between natural texture and altered styles. In some cases, hair practices such as wigs, weaves, and chemical straightening are chosen for convenience, versatility, or cultural preference, not solely as a response to pressure.

When I observe global and diasporic practices—whether in the United States or parts of Africa—I see a wide range of approaches to hair care and styling. These choices reflect not ignorance, but a complex mixture of tradition, environment, personal preference, and evolving beauty norms.

Ultimately, I understand Black hair as both a biological feature and a cultural narrative. It carries history, identity, adaptation, and creativity. The real question, from my perspective, is not whether one texture is superior, but how societies assign meaning and value to natural human variation—and how those meanings can be reshaped toward respect, balance, and self-definition.

Our hair is our crowning glory; there are various textures of hair that black people have due to genetics and racial mixing. These textures vary from 3A to 4D, from beautiful to tightly curled.

3 a – fine curl pattern

 3 b – medium curl pattern

3 c – loose curly pattern

 4a – thicker curly pattern

4b – thicker medium pattern

4c – medium curly pattern

4d – excessively tighter curls

COMMON THINGS SPOKEN ABOUT HAIR TYPE 3A – 4C:

Coily Hair

You need to straighten it, unkept! Do something with your hair. It is nappy, you look ugly, and you need a weave. Go and rectify it. I like you better with straight hair.

Permed Hair

If you don’t love yourself, go natural! Trying to be something you are not.

Curly Hair

You have some good hair. It is too wild and needs to be straightened. What are you mixed with?

Straight Hair

Ideal with the masses, the universal standard of hair beauty.

Facts about black hair: 

It keeps you cool and protects you from the sun.

Our hair is our crowning glory; there are many textures of hair that black people have due to genetics and interracial relations.

There is more money spent on hair care around the world than on products to actually make the hair grow.

There is no such thing as bad hair; the strains of our hair were created by the Most High, and trust me, he knew what He was doing in creation, but through colonization and the media, which suggests that long, straight, flowing hair is most attractive.

We as people have bought into that lie. Yes, I said it, that lie, because that is what it is. You have been brainwashed into thinking that excessively curly or woolly hair isn’t as good as straight hair.

The Savior of this world has woolly hair.

My nation is so ignorant of how they talk about their hair. All hair is good. Embrace your wool.

I was taught I had terrible hair, so I relaxed it and added weave. Now I am bald-headed — Brittany (a 31-year-old black woman) 

I wish my parents had taught me that my hair wasn’t bad — Erica Wilson (18-year-old female) 

There is nothing better than a black woman who wears her natural hair — Jonathan (white male married to a black woman)

I often choose to walk with my hair covered at times, and in doing so, I carry a sense of mystery about what lies beneath—whether it is worn in a short style or allowed to grow freely in its natural fullness. For me, covering the hair is not simply a fashion choice; it also echoes a deeper historical memory.

In the late eighteenth century in colonial Louisiana, Black women were subjected to legal restrictions regarding their appearance in public. Under the Spanish colonial administration’s Bando de Buen Gobierno (Edict for Good Government), and later reinforced through what became known as the Tignon Laws, free women of African descent were required to cover their hair when appearing in public spaces. The tignon (pronounced tee-yon) was a headwrap mandated as a form of social control, intended to suppress what colonial authorities viewed as expressions of beauty, autonomy, and visibility among Black women.

Historical analysis suggests that these regulations were deeply tied to racialized and gendered power dynamics, particularly concerns over visibility, desirability, and social hierarchy in colonial society. Over time, what was intended as a symbol of restriction was transformed by many Black women into a form of cultural expression, creativity, and resistance—reclaiming the headwrap as a statement of dignity and identity.

In reflecting on this history, I also recognize how echoes of these dynamics can still appear in contemporary spaces. In some professional environments, natural Black hair continues to be policed or judged, with expectations that it be altered or straightened in order to be deemed acceptable. Sociologists often describe this phenomenon as a continuation of texturism, where certain hair textures are privileged over others through cultural bias and institutional standards.

Yet, at the same time, there is a powerful cultural shift taking place. More and more Black women and men are reclaiming their natural hair textures, challenging long-standing beauty hierarchies, and redefining what professionalism and beauty look like on their own terms. This movement is not only aesthetic but deeply cultural and psychological, reflecting a return to self-definition and authenticity.

Ultimately, I see Black hair—especially tightly coiled and natural textures—as something sacred in its complexity. It is both biological and symbolic, shaped by nature and honored through culture. When cared for and embraced, it reflects strength, versatility, and identity.

Coily hair is not something to be corrected or hidden—it is something to be understood, nurtured, and honored. In its natural form, it carries history, resilience, and beauty. For Black women and men alike, embracing our hair is an act of self-recognition: a declaration that what grows from us is not a flaw to be fixed, but a crown to be respected, cared for, and worn with confidence.

Good Hair (we have it.) 

Reference: The Brown Girl Dilemma Book, 2017

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References:

Callender, V. D., McMichael, A. J., & Cohen, G. F. (2004). Medical and surgical therapies for alopecias in Black women. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(2), 164–176. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04017.x

Khumalo, N. P., Doe, P. T., Dawber, R. P. R., & Ferguson, D. J. P. (2000). What is healthy Black African hair? A light and scanning electron microscopic study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 43(5), 814–820.

Jablonski, N. G., & Chaplin, G. (2010). Human skin pigmentation as an adaptation to UV radiation. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 107(Supplement 2), 8962–8968.

Callender, V. D., McMichael, A. J., & Cohen, G. F. (2004). Medical and surgical therapies for alopecias in Black women. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(2), 164–176. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04017.x

Khumalo, N. P., Doe, P. T., Dawber, R. P. R., & Ferguson, D. J. P. (2000). What is healthy Black African hair? A light and scanning electron microscopic study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 43(5), 814–820.

Konishi, S. (2008). Tied in rolled knots and powdered with ochre: Aboriginal hair and eighteenth-century cross-cultural encounters. Borderlands, 7(2), 1–20.

Rosenthal, M. (2004). Race and hair texture in Enlightenment anthropology (cited synthesis in historical anthropology literature).

Umar, S., et al. (2015). Hair breakage in patients of African descent: Role of dermoscopy. Skin Appendage Disorders, 1(2), 99–104. https://doi.org/10.1159/000436981

Diderot, D., & d’Alembert, J. (1765). Encyclopédie (Vol. 11, p. 76). (As cited in Rosenthal, 2004).