“Black hair is beautiful, but society has often told us otherwise. It is a statement of identity, resistance, and pride.” — Dr. Ayana Byrd, author of Hair Story
“My hair is my crown, and I wear it with pride. Every curl tells a story.” — Lupita Nyong’o
Black hair has long been a symbol of identity, heritage, and culture. The textures range from tightly coiled kinks to soft waves, each reflecting the rich diversity of African ancestry. However, the politics surrounding Black hair are deeply tied to historical and social power structures. Eurocentric standards of beauty have positioned straight hair as the “universal standard,” often marginalizing naturally textured hair. This has created a spectrum of discrimination, from overt workplace bias to subtler societal messaging about what constitutes “good” versus “bad” hair. Understanding the textures, cultural history, and politics of Black hair is essential to fostering pride, resilience, and self-acceptance within the Black community.
The Textures and Cultural Significance
Black hair textures vary widely, commonly classified into four types (1–4), with subcategories (A–C) based on curl tightness and pattern. Type 1 is straight hair, which is rare among people of African descent. Type 2 is wavy, Type 3 is curly, and Type 4 is coily/kinky, characterized by tightly packed curls. Each texture carries cultural significance: in African societies, hairstyles represented social status, tribal affiliation, and spiritual beliefs. The Bible also references hair as a sign of strength and identity; for example, Samson’s hair was a symbol of his God-given strength (Judges 16:17, KJV). These textures have been politicized in modern society, where natural hair has often been stigmatized in favor of straightened, chemically relaxed styles.
The Impact of Media and Societal Standards
Media representations reinforce the notion that straight hair is the universal standard of beauty, creating a pervasive hierarchy of hair textures. “Good hair,” often described as straight or loosely curled, is historically linked to proximity to whiteness, while kinky or coily hair has been labeled “bad” or unprofessional (Byrd & Tharps, 2001). These messages have psychological and emotional impacts, influencing self-esteem, identity formation, and social mobility. Mothers, aware of societal bias, often teach children to view their natural hair as needing taming or improvement, inadvertently perpetuating internalized bias. Celebrities and public figures like Lupita Nyong’o challenge this narrative, celebrating natural hair as a crown of heritage and a statement of self-worth.
Care, Products, and Community Perspectives
Caring for Black hair requires attention to moisture, protective styling, and gentle handling to prevent breakage. Recommended products include shea butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil, and sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners. Popular protective styles include braids, twists, locs, and cornrows. Black men have expressed diverse opinions on Black hair, ranging from appreciation of natural textures to preferences shaped by societal norms. These perspectives highlight the ongoing negotiation of identity, beauty, and social perception within the community. Scholars emphasize that reclaiming pride in natural hair fosters empowerment and combats internalized oppression (Banks, 2016).
Conclusion
Black hair is more than aesthetic; it is a political and cultural statement that reflects history, identity, and resilience. From kinky coils to loose curls, hair embodies a legacy of survival, pride, and spiritual significance. By understanding hair textures, rejecting media-imposed hierarchies, and embracing culturally affirming care practices, the Black community can reclaim the crown of natural beauty. As Lupita Nyong’o asserts, each curl tells a story, and through this recognition, Black hair can be celebrated rather than stigmatized. Embracing the politics and pride of Black hair is a step toward self-love, cultural affirmation, and generational healing.
References
Banks, I. (2016). Hair Matters: Beauty, Power, and Black Women’s Consciousness. NYU Press.
Byrd, A., & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
Lupita Nyong’o. (2014). Personal Interview: Celebrating Natural Hair. Essence Magazine.
Roberts, D. (2010). Shaping Beauty, Shaping Race: African American Women and Hair Politics. Duke University Press.
These photographs are the property of their respective owners.
Hair is more than an aesthetic expression; it is an emblem of identity, culture, power, and resistance. In racialized societies, however, the natural hair textures of African-descended peoples have long been devalued and stigmatized. One of the most insidious manifestations of this stigma is texturism—a form of discrimination based on hair texture that prioritizes looser, straighter, or more “manageable” hair over tightly coiled, kinkier hair. Closely linked to hairism, which broadly encompasses prejudice based on hair type and style, texturism reflects internalized racism and the lingering colonial legacies that shape beauty standards globally. This essay explores the roots, meanings, and consequences of texturism and hairism, tracing their origins through enslavement, Eurocentric aesthetics, and media representation, while also examining pathways toward hair acceptance and reclamation.
Defining Texturism and Hairism
Texturism is the preferential treatment of individuals with loosely curled or straight hair textures over those with tightly coiled or kinky hair. The term was coined by natural hair advocate Chassity Jones in the early 2010s, though the concept existed long before. Hairism, a broader term, refers to discrimination based on hair—whether through texture, length, or perceived neatness. Both terms expose a hierarchy that privileges proximity to Eurocentric beauty ideals, reflecting deeply entrenched social and racial structures.
Historically, hairism and texturism are legacies of colonialism and slavery. Enslaved Africans in the Americas were mocked and punished for their hair, which was seen as wild, untamed, or inferior to the smooth, straight hair of Europeans. Over time, this bias became internalized within Black communities, creating harmful classifications like “good hair” (straight or loosely curled) and “bad hair” (kinky or tightly coiled). These distinctions perpetuated social divisions, reinforcing white supremacist ideologies under the guise of grooming and professionalism.
Hair Texture Types and Their Racial Associations
Hair texture is commonly categorized using the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, developed by Oprah Winfrey’s stylist in the 1990s. It breaks down hair types into four major categories:
Type 1: Straight hair (most commonly found among East Asians and Europeans).
Type 2: Wavy hair
2A-2C: Light waves to coarse, frizzy waves (found in some Latinx, Middle Eastern, and European populations).
Type 3: Curly hair
3A-3C: Loose, springy curls to tight corkscrews (common among mixed-race individuals and some Black and Latinx people).
Type 4: Coily or kinky hair
4A-4C: Soft, tight coils to densely packed Z-shaped kinks (predominantly found in people of African descent).
Type 4 hair, particularly 4B and 4C, is often mislabeled as “nappy,” “unkempt,” or “unprofessional,” despite its remarkable versatility and strength. This classification system, while useful in describing curl patterns, has also unintentionally contributed to a hierarchy in which looser curls are perceived as more attractive and acceptable than tighter coils.
“Good Hair” vs. “Bad Hair”: Origins and Impact
The phrase “good hair” emerged during the antebellum era in the United States, when lighter-skinned enslaved people with straighter hair—often the children of white slave owners—were granted preferential treatment. “Good hair” was hair that mimicked the European aesthetic: straight, smooth, and easily tamed. Conversely, “bad hair” referred to the coarser, kinkier textures of African people, which were labeled undesirable.
The legacy of these terms endures today. Black children still experience discrimination in schools for wearing their natural hair. Black professionals are pressured to straighten their hair or wear wigs and weaves to conform to Eurocentric corporate standards. The CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair), first passed in California in 2019, had to be introduced precisely because hair-based discrimination remains legal in many parts of the U.S.
“I had to learn that my hair is not the problem—the world’s refusal to see my beauty is.” —Lupita Nyong’o
“Our hair is political, spiritual, historical, and beautiful. It tells the story of who we are.” —Dr. Yaba Blay
These quotes reflect a growing cultural movement toward reclaiming natural hair and affirming Black identity on its own terms, rather than through the gaze of whiteness.
The Origins of the Term “Nappy”
The term “nappy” is believed to have originated during slavery, used derogatorily to describe the tightly coiled hair of Africans, likening it to the coarse texture of cotton or the naps in sheep’s wool. Its use was designed to dehumanize and shame enslaved Africans, stripping their hair—and by extension, their identity—of any value or beauty. While some have sought to reclaim “nappy” as a term of empowerment, its historical weight continues to stir deep emotions and debate within Black communities.
Kinky Hair / Tightly Coiled Hair
Kinky or coily hair refers to hair textures that form tight curls or zig-zag patterns, often classified as Type 4. This hair type is rich in cultural and genetic heritage, yet is frequently misunderstood. Contrary to myths of unmanageability, kinky hair is incredibly versatile and can be styled in braids, locs, afros, twists, and bantu knots. However, due to its tendency to shrink and its fragility, it requires specific care and moisture retention.
Why is this hair type stigmatized? The answer lies in colonial aesthetics: beauty standards were built around whiteness. Kinky hair was demonized as evidence of racial inferiority and disorder—ideas perpetuated by pseudo-scientific racism. As a result, even within Black communities, looser curls or silkier textures have been idealized, creating a painful hierarchy of desirability.
Why Do Some Black People Struggle to Love Their Hair?
Centuries of anti-Blackness have conditioned many Black individuals to see their natural hair as burdensome or ugly. The media, education, and even family dynamics have reinforced these messages. Hair relaxers, hot combs, and weaves became tools of survival—ways to assimilate and escape ridicule. These practices, while empowering for some, also reflect a historical pressure to conform.
This struggle is not due to self-hate in isolation but to systemic programming. As author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie once said:
“The problem with stereotypes is not that they are untrue, but that they are incomplete. They make one story become the only story.”
The dominant story about Black hair has been one of shame. It is time to replace that narrative with one of pride, knowledge, and celebration.
Toward Hair Liberation: Learning to Appreciate All Hair
Appreciating all hair types begins with education, representation, and liberation from Eurocentric norms. Schools and workplaces must eliminate discriminatory policies and embrace cultural diversity. Media outlets should highlight a broader spectrum of beauty. Families must unlearn generational biases and uplift natural beauty from early childhood.
Hair appreciation means understanding that no one texture is inherently better than another. Each type has unique needs, characteristics, and histories. Straight hair is not superior—just different. Looser curls are not more professional—just more familiar to a colonized eye.
When we affirm all hair textures, we affirm the humanity, dignity, and worth of all people.
Conclusion
Texturism and hairism are not simply issues of personal preference—they are extensions of colonial legacies, white supremacy, and internalized racism. They operate through language, beauty standards, school policies, and job opportunities, creating tiers of acceptance based on proximity to whiteness. But within this struggle lies opportunity: to reclaim, redefine, and rejoice in the beauty of all textures. Black hair is not “bad hair”; it is cultural memory made visible, it is resistance in every coil, it is ancestral glory written in strands. The journey to dismantle texturism begins not with hair products, but with truth—and with a collective commitment to healing.
References
Blay, Y. (2021). One Drop: Shifting the Lens on Race. Beacon Press.
Byrd, A. D., & Tharps, L. L. (2014). Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America (Revised Edition). St. Martin’s Press.
Craig, M. L. (2002). Ain’t I a Beauty Queen? Black Women, Beauty, and the Politics of Race. Oxford University Press.
Hunter, M. (2011). Buying racial capital: Skin-bleaching and cosmetic surgery in a globalized world. The Journal of Pan African Studies, 4(4), 142–164.
Opie, T. (2019). The CROWN Act and the fight against hair discrimination. Harvard Business Review. Retrieved from https://hbr.org
Colorism — the prejudicial or preferential treatment of individuals based on the lightness or darkness of their skin — is a deeply rooted issue within the Black community and American society at large. Unlike racism, which operates between races, colorism functions within them, favoring lighter-skinned individuals while marginalizing those with darker complexions. This systemic bias has been perpetuated through media, beauty standards, and cultural practices dating back to slavery and colonialism. The lingering impact affects identity, self-worth, relationships, and social mobility.
A Historical Foundation: Slavery and Post-Emancipation Color Hierarchies
The origins of colorism within the Black community can be traced to slavery in the Americas. Enslaved Africans were categorized based on skin tone. Lighter-skinned Black people—often the offspring of white slave owners and Black women—were sometimes given preferential treatment. Many were allowed to work indoors as house slaves, while darker-skinned individuals were relegated to harsher labor in the fields (Hunter, 2007).
After emancipation, colorism continued to shape social stratification. The “paper bag test” and “blue vein societies” were social clubs that only accepted Black individuals with lighter complexions, illustrating internalized standards of proximity to whiteness (Russell, Wilson, & Hall, 1992).
“Good Hair”: Textures, Tensions, and Eurocentric Norms
“Good hair” is a term that emerged in the Black community to describe hair that is straight, wavy, or loosely curled—textured more like European hair. It implied that natural Black hair, especially tightly coiled or “kinky” textures, was inferior or unkempt (Byrd & Tharps, 2001).
This notion has led to generations of Black women chemically straightening their hair or wearing weaves and wigs to conform to mainstream beauty ideals. While these choices can be empowering when made freely, they have historically been rooted in survival, assimilation, or professional advancement.
Beauty Stereotypes and the Black Male Gaze
Black men have not been immune to the influence of Eurocentric beauty standards. Due to internalized racism and media influence, many have historically preferred women who align with mainstream ideals—lighter skin, softer features, and straighter hair.
This preference is evident in music videos, movies, and celebrity culture, where the women often cast as “ideal” are those who fit this mold. Sociologist Patricia Hill Collins (2000) calls this the “controlling image” that reinforces narrow definitions of beauty.
Icons of Acceptability: Halle Berry, Jayne Kennedy, and the Politics of Representation
Halle Berry and Jayne Kennedy are often celebrated as trailblazing Black beauties in mainstream entertainment. However, their widespread acceptance is tied to their lighter skin tones, Eurocentric features, and “good hair.” Their success raises questions: Were they embraced for their talent, or because their looks were less threatening to white beauty norms?
Their rise parallels a pattern in which Black women who more closely resemble white women are more likely to be praised, while darker-skinned actresses with Afrocentric features struggle for visibility or are typecast (Craig, 2002).
Modern Manifestations: Social Media, Dating Apps, and Internalized Bias
Colorism remains prevalent in the digital age. Studies show that lighter-skinned individuals are more likely to be perceived as attractive on dating apps (Monk, 2014). In rap lyrics, phrases like “redbone” or “yellow bone” celebrate light skin, reinforcing outdated hierarchies.
Young Black girls often internalize these messages, leading to lower self-esteem and body image issues. The documentary “Dark Girls” (2011) highlights the pain and psychological trauma many Black women experience due to colorism.
Breaking the Cycle: What Is the Answer?
Addressing colorism requires both personal and systemic efforts:
Education & Awareness: Teaching the history of colorism and its effects through schools, media, and community organizations can help change perceptions.
Representation: Amplifying the beauty of darker-skinned Black individuals with natural hair and diverse features in media, fashion, and advertising helps normalize all expressions of Black beauty.
Challenging Preferences: Black men and women must reflect on how their dating and beauty preferences may be shaped by internalized racism.
Legislation & Policy: Laws like the CROWN Act, which bans discrimination against natural hairstyles, are a step toward dismantling systemic bias in schools and workplaces.
Cultural Healing: Embracing African ancestry, traditions, and aesthetics can help foster a more inclusive understanding of beauty and identity.
Conclusion
Colorism is not just about skin tone—it’s about power, privilege, and proximity to whiteness. Its influence pervades the way Black people view themselves and each other. From the plantation fields to Instagram feeds, the legacy of colorism continues to shape the Black experience. But through conscious effort, self-love, and collective activism, the community can redefine beauty on its own terms.
References
Byrd, A., & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
Collins, P. H. (2000). Black Feminist Thought: Knowledge, Consciousness, and the Politics of Empowerment. Routledge.
Craig, M. L. (2002). Ain’t I a Beauty Queen? Black Women, Beauty, and the Politics of Race. Oxford University Press.
Hunter, M. (2007). “The Persistent Problem of Colorism: Skin Tone, Status, and Inequality.” Sociology Compass, 1(1), 237-254.
Monk, E. P. Jr. (2014). “Skin Tone Stratification among Black Americans, 2001–2003.” Social Forces, 92(4), 1313–1337.
Russell, K., Wilson, M., & Hall, R. (1992). The Color Complex: The Politics of Skin Color Among African Americans. Anchor Books.
Dark Girls (2011). Directed by D. Thomas and B. Duke. OWN Network.
Our hair stands in awe of the Most High, the creator of all creation. The sunbeams of the golden fleece that raptures our skins (no matter the hue) and the heat crystalize the tones in wooly hair. What a fabulous creation we are.
All photographs are the property of their respective owners.
In his book, “The Chemical Key to Black Greatness” American Biochemist, Carol Barnes, described melanin as, “a civilizing chemical that acts as a sedative to help keep the black human calm, relaxed, caring, creative, energetic and civilized.” Research also revealed that melanin enables black skin to actively interact with the sun, to produce Vitamin D from a biochemical substance, 7- dehydrocholesterol. The study also detected that melanin has spiritual dynamics as well as physical since it acts as a sensory ‘receptor’ and ‘transmitter’; communicating with cosmic energy fields in the vast universe converting light energy to sound energy and back. Dr. Richard King, MD, stated that “melanin, by its ability to capture light and hold it in a memory mode, reveals that blackness converts light into knowledge.”
Melanin refines the nervous system in such a way that messages from the brain reach other areas of the body most rapidly in dark people, the primary race. The abundance of melanin in our skin gives us genetic inferiority. We are physically stronger. Mentally sounder. Spiritually more connected.
Wooly hair is the tree that points to the heavens.
His head and his hairs were white like wool, as white as snow; and his eyes were as a flame of fire; Revelation 1:14 KJV.
Our roots run long straight to the sky. Wooly hair can withstand heat at high temperatures. ‘Although there are no biochemical differences among black, Caucasian, and Asian hair types, there are differences in the hair morphology (8). Black hair appears elliptical or flattened in cross-section, whereas Caucasian hair is oval, and Asian hair is round. The follicle of black hair is curved, in contrast to a straight follicle in Caucasians and Asians.’ – Callender, V. D., McMichael, A. J. and Cohen, G. F. (2004), Medical and surgical therapies for alopecias in black women. Dermatologic Therapy, 17: 164–176. doi:10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04017.x
Khumalo NP, Doe PT, Dawber PR, Ferguson DJP.What is healthy black African hair? A light and scanning electron microscopic study. J Am Acad Dermatol 2000: 43:814–820. ‘African hair is curly and frequently exhibits knots ‘However, increased evidence of wearing with some loss of the cuticular pattern was observed towards the tip of the nose in all 3 racial groups most extreme wearing, with complete loss of cuticular structure, was seen toward the tip of the hairs of the Caucasian subject with the most extended hair. However, the hair shafts of the African volunteers did exhibit structural damage with evidence of longitudinal fissures, resulting in the splitting of the hair shafts. The splitting was also associated with knot formation. Longitudinal cracks were not observed in the Caucasian or Asian hairs. It was also found that many of the black African hairs (approximately 40%) were fractured with no attached roots.
‘The African hair shafts were enclosed by a well-preserved cuticle similar to that observed for the other racial groups. ‘The most significant feature was that the majority of the tips of the African hair had fractured ends …Similarly, the basal end also exhibited evidence of breakage in contrast to the Caucasian and Asian samples in which the majority of hairs had attached roots.’
‘From these observations, it could be proposed that any procedure that reduces knotting of hair and/or the need for combing would result in an increase in the length of the hair by reducing the incidence of breaks in the hair shafts.’
Konishi, S., (2008). Tied in rolled knots and powdered with ochre’: Aboriginal hair and eighteenth-century cross-cultural encounters. Borderlands, 7(2), 1-20. Through the influential work of the great taxonomer, Carolus Linnaeus,… Homo europaeus ‘yellow, brown, flowing’, Homo asiaticus ‘abundant black,’ and Homo after ‘black, frizzled’ (cited in Rosenthal, 2004: 2).
This eighteenth-century definition and conceptualization of African hair as ‘woolly’ intersected with slavery discourses that dehumanized the African body to justify its abject treatment. The Oxford English Dictionary indicates that this derogatory term signifying ‘the short, tightly-curled hair of Negroid peoples’ was first used in a runaway slave advertisement in 1697. This type of hair was also ascribed to sexual connotations, according to Allan Peterkin, ‘frizzy’ hair was seen as ‘demonic, licentious, and public.’
… ‘Negro’ possessed ‘wool instead of hair,’ and this difference, in concert with others concerning skin and facial features, suggested that they ‘appear to constitute a new species of man’ (in Diderot and d’Alembert, 1765, v. 11: 76). uaresma, M. V., Martinez Velasco, M. A., & Tosti, A. (2015). Hair Breakage in Patients of African Descent: Role of Dermoscopy. Skin Appendage Disorders, 1(2), 99–104. http://doi.org/10.1159/000436981
In addition to these properties, the water content in African descent hair is slightly lower than in Caucasian hair, and the sebaceous glands often secrete a small amount of sebum, which has an uneven distribution along the shaft due to its spiral shape, leaving the hair with a dry appearance. M [17,20]
When we associate the term “Mixed Race Hair” we get a visual that it is wild, unruly, hard-to-tame hair. The curly, wavy, coiled, or full-bodied curls, are mostly the combination of different genetic factors that contribute to the texture of feel, the length, the volume, and the plethora of different hair textures. the truth is mixed race hair has more ortho-cortical cells which make it less prone to breakage and damage than finely coiled hair from the scalp. However, the bottom strands are closer to the coily nature of an afro.
Mixed hair, curly or wavy is often referred to as “Good Hair,” All hair is good hair, it all was created by the Most High.
The great phenomenon of wooly hair, the spiral-shaped, tightly coiled, excessive curly mass that tends to hold its shape and grows as a tree straight up on the head. Who are the recipients of such hair? The E1B1A gene carriers – the descendants are the biologically related ancestors far beyond the African diaspora. This is one topic that science has been perplexed by the origin of wooly hair. Geneticists will often say, “The genetic determinants of hair texture in humans are largely not found by science.” It’s either pleiotropic, and selection was for its research fails in comparison to the impact of genetically putting a stamp on its true origin. What genes of phenotypes put together have created such hair type? What is clear is that wooly hair has been passed down from Adam to each generation after his existence.
Most black women testify that perms, pressing combs, and relaxers make their hair more manageable. Who is the inventor of the relaxer? In 1877, the relaxer was created by accident by Garrett A. Morgan the same man that invented the traffic signal. This allowed women and men of color to have straight hair like their white counterparts for hundreds of years. The perm was referred to as “ creamy crack” in Chris Rock’s “Good Hair Documentary” A must-see if you haven’t seen it already it exposes the dangers and chemicals found in the hair treatments. Natural Hair is the best it is at its healthiest, free of chemicals and it grows fast! The chemicals in the relaxer treatments may be damaging but many women will argue the fact that having a relaxer has contributed to their back length hair if it is taken care of.
Black hair is a target of “texturism.” The question is, “Why has the world scrutinized our hair?” While we are burning it with chemicals and heating tools, and tearing it out with weaves and glue. For 400 years +, the general population of black people has been imparted to by white people that their hair texture and skin are superior to that of black hair and black skin. This welcomed the birth of a hair obsession. A majority of blacks perceive straight, silky, and soft hair as best. When in fact, wooly hair is scientifically superior to straight hair. Coiled hair acts as antennae conducting the electromagnetic energies of the sun. These are the benefits that our ancestors had in the cotton fields in intense heat. Kinky, afros, nappy, curly, pressed, permed, weaves, or smooth flow? What is our obsession with hair, and how does it affect our perceptions of what is considered attractive? This differentiation of various textures of hair that disregards our hair as being good sociological programming still continues today.
For as long as I remember people often asked me after examining my mid-back length hair, “Is all that hair yours?” or “Do you have Indian in your family?“ In the literal sense of logic or even common sense what they are saying to me is that a black female can’t have long hair unless she is mixed with something. Now, this thought process was first initiated by Willie Lynch back in slavery times and is still relevant today. So the term “Nappy” was created by the white man and was adopted for centuries by black people, but in reality, our hair has a helix (spiral) pattern. It’s the same pattern as whirlwinds and sound waves and DNA. Our hair is meant to grow outward like a tree, not downward like a cascading waterfall. When our hair is given proper care, it’s fluffy and soft. Not only that, our hair is high-volume, high-definition. Our hair doesn’t hang down, it’s not limp, lifeless, and flat, it never lacks volume, and you’ll never see a sister wearing a “bump-it” to get the illusion of voluminous hair. We don’t need it. We can take our wool from kinky to curly to wavy to straight and back to kinky again if that’s our desire. Our hair can even defy gravity and do so naturally. Others can’t. Our hair is a glorious crown, the “original” crown. Look how a head is designed! So, when you see these so-called European royalty women wearing a top. They are imitating the beauty of our hair! Wow isn’t that amazing! For black women, the straight hair bias is the culprit of texture prejudice that privileges the white woman’s texture as the supreme texture of hair. Black women are not aware that our hair is rich with soil, the color of dark chocolate rises to the sky, vastness as space, coiled to perfection, and a mystery of the Most High.
I must admit I love running my fingers through my hair while showering, the curls embrace my face as the water runs the length of my back. I get attention on the comeliness of my hair they suggest that it’s a prized possession but in reality, to my nation, it’s a god. Yes, it is possible to worship hair, I have never been guilty of such worship.. frankly, I always had long hair. It was never a concern of mine. But for many of my sisters, it is, after all, it’s our crowning glory. Black women have always been guilty of false glory due to the fact that you are adorning your head with someone else’s glory. How do we get our own glory? By nourishing our own glory and owning it. I know we own our cars, clothes, or even homes but we must own our hair. We must be thankful and take care of what the Most High gave us.
My interview with Khalifa Musical, a professor of African American Studies
Q. Do you think that as children we are programmed to say that our hair is bad?
Khalifa: Yes, I remember my mother said to my sister about her kinky hair, you need to get your hair done by that she meant to straighten it with perms of straightening combs. As a man, I grow up conditioned to perceive black hair as something terrible that needed to be fixed. I used to look at the women on the commercial and think that was beauty, it was not until I because a student of consciousness that I realize my thinking was wrong. In fact with most of my students, when asked about black hair – 43% (over 200 black male students) said they prepared black women with their natural hair, apart from wigs, weaves, and perms. While 57 % preferred the look of Caucasian straight hair as most attractive and 90% voted that this was conditioned by slavery misconceptions and fallacies about our hair.
Redefining the standard of beauty in terms of hair.
The hair texture closely associated with European straight hair is considered almost heavenly good and esteemed most attractive. This straight hair blows in the wind, cascading down the back, smooth to the touch, and easy to comb. Is this perfection? How can this hair be the best? Willie Lynch is to blame for this one dividing and conquering the slaves based on hair texture. But who says this is true? The fault lies with the mother who never taught the daughter the beauty of her hair. The world has brought into this lie, pure and simple for some, there is no turning back from this theory. In West Africa, Nigeria to be specific the boys and young girls cut their hair off not to deal with the texture and opt to wear wigs. While in the United States, black women are literally tearing their hair out of their heads through the wearing of the weave so they can slang it back and forth. The ignorance of our people is undoubtedly devastating to know that something that was created with sheer brilliance is a beast of burden to many.
How to take care of black hair?
My Q & A with my hairdresser Diana, note she has natural hair all the way down her back.
Q: What do you think about this Good hair, Bad hair situation among black people?
Diane: I think black people are some of the most ignorant people on earth, surely they have bought into the lie of slavery. All hair is good, if it grows out of your head, it is good. What has ruined our noses is the perms and the weaves.
Q: What are some tips for the maintenance and growth of natural hair?
Diane:
1. There is a huge misconception that black hair is coarse, strong, and can take a beating. That is true, in fact, black hair is the most fragile of every hair type, my Asian clients have the strongest hair very coarse now their hair can take a beating.
2. Co-washes your hair once a week with a natural moisturizing conditioner and not shampoo because it dries out the hair which can cause breakage.
3. Keep your hair moisturized with a natural moisturizer and seal the ends with olive oil. Choose natural organic products and try to avoid products with mineral oils and petroleum oil. Natural oils like almond, coconut oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, and jojoba oils are much better.
4. If you use heat styling products (blow dryers, Flatirons) on your hair, try and cut it down to 1-2 times a month if you can, and make sure you use a heat protection shampoo and/or moisturizer, or a good heat protective serum/spray on your hair before flat ironing or curling.
5. Make sure you sleep on a satin pillowcase or tie your hair up in a silk scarf so your hair can stay healthy and won’t break or tear. Silk or satin pillowcases, bonnets, and scarves will protect your hair from breakage while rubbing against certain fabrics that cause breakage.
6. Moisturize your ends nightly with coconut oil before you go to sleep
7. Once a month only use a protein treatment for deep conditioning.
8. To extend hair growth I recommend a diet of fresh fruits and vegetables and exercised weekly to get the blood flowing to your hair.
9. Massage your scalp a few times a week for extra blood flow for hair growth.
10. Use a wide tooth comb to comb your hair, stop buying bristle brushes or thin combs which will get caught in your hair and snap it off. Go for low maintenance. We should never comb our hair every day just detangle it with your fingers, after applying moisturizer.
Unfortunately, that is the gospel that most black or brown women preach. The truth is that if you keep all the weaves and chemicals off your hair, it will grow with some easy maintenance, it will grow in no time. A black woman’s hair will grow if she maintains to keep it healthy and nourished with the right natural products, contrary to popular belief, the black woman is not alone, there are some cases where the white woman’s hair won’t grow either, or it’s fragile — Diane (my hairdresser)
The Curse
Moreover the LORD saith, Because the daughters of Zion are haughty, and walk with stretched forth necks and wanton eyes, walking and mincing as they go, and making a tinkling with their feet: Therefore the Lord will smite with a scab the crown of the head of the daughters of Zion, and the LORD will discover their secret parts. — Isaiah 3: 16-17 –
Because of the haughtiness toward our men, our head was smitten with baldness, which would explain the lust for long hair. We had the beauty everyone wanted at that time. We are the Daughters of Zion. That was a curse! Now today… I believe that curse is lifted… With all the beautiful hair treatments, perms, hair styling, relaxers, weaves, chemicals from shampoos, our diet, hormones, what we drink, rest, environment, etc. All these elements affect the health of our hair. What is paramount is the way we care for our hair. Is long hair possible? Yes.
Asha Mandela, who reportedly has the most extended hair, and dreads in the world at a whopping 22 feet long, her extremely long tresses were documented by the Guinness World Record in 2009. Many of us on this day have long hair. Your hair grows! Take care of the hair that grows out of your head. Black women are waking up to their true identity according to the Bible all over the world & learning to love the skin they’re in, wooly hair & all through the natural hair movement and it is absolutely awe-inspiring.
But if a woman has long hair, it is a glory to her: for her hair is given her for a covering.1 Corinthians 11:15 KJV
Black hair is a target of the famous “Ism,” known as “Texturism.” The question is, “Why has the world scrutinized our hair?” While we are burning it with chemicals and heating tools, and tearing it out with weaves and glue. For 400 years +, the general population of black people has been imparted to by white people that their hair texture and skin is superior to that of black hair and black leather. This welcomed the birth of a hair obsession. A majority of blacks perceive straight, silky, and soft hair as best. When in fact, wooly hair is scientifically superior to straight hair. Coiled hair acts as antennae conducting the electromagnetic energies of the sun. These are the benefits that our ancestors had in the cotton fields in intense heat. Kinky, afros, nappy, curly, pressed, permed, weaves, or smooth flow? What is our obsession with hair, and how does it affect our perceptions of what is considered attractive? This differentiation of various textures of hair that disregards our hair as being good sociological programming still continues today.
For as long as I remember people often asked me after examining my mid-back length hair, “Is all that hair yours?” or “Do you have Indian in your family?“ In the literal sense of logic or even common sense what they are saying to me is that a black female can’t have long hair unless she is mixed with something. Now, this thought process was first initiated by Willie Lynch back in slavery times and is still relevant today. So the term “Nappy” was created by the white man and was adopted for centuries by black people, but in reality, our hair has a helix (spiral) pattern. It’s the same pattern as whirlwinds and sound waves and DNA. Our hair is meant to grow outward like a tree, not downward like a cascading waterfall. When our hair is given proper care, it’s fluffy and soft. Not only that, our hair is high-volume, high-definition. Our hair doesn’t hang down, it’s not limp, lifeless, and flat, it never lacks volume, and you’ll never see a sister wearing a “bump-it” to get the illusion of voluminous hair. We don’t need it. We can take our wool from kinky to curly to wavy to straight and back to kinky again if that’s our desire. Our hair can even defy gravity and do so naturally. Others can’t. Our hair is a glorious crown, the “original” crown. Look how a head is designed! So, when you see these so-called European royalty women wearing a top. They are imitating the beauty of our hair! Wow isn’t that amazing! For black women, the straight hair bias is the culprit of texture prejudice that privileges the white woman’s texture as the supreme texture of hair. Black women are not aware that our hair is rich with soil, the color of dark chocolate rises to the sky, vast as space, coiled to perfection, and a mystery of the Most High.
My interview with Khalifa Musfai, a professor of African American Studies
Q. Do you think that as children we are programmed to say that our hair is bad?
Khalifa: Yes, I remember my mother said to my sister about her kinky hair, you need to get your hair done by that she meant to straighten it with perms of straightening combs. As a man, I grow up conditioned to perceive black hair as something terrible that needed to be fixed. I used to look at the women on the commercial and think that was beauty, it was not until I because a student of consciousness that I realize my thinking was wrong. In fact with most of my students, when asked about black hair – 43% (over 200 black male students) said they prepared black women with their natural hair, apart from wigs, weaves, and perms. While 57 % preferred the look of Caucasian straight hair as most attractive and 90% voted that this was conditioned by slavery misconceptions and fallacies about our hair.
Redefining the standard of beauty in terms of hair.
I must admit I love running my fingers through my hair while showering, the curls embrace my face as the water runs the length of my back. I get attention on the comeliness of my hair they suggest that it’s a prized possession, but in reality, to my nation, it’s a god. Yes, it is possible to worship hair, I have never been guilty of such worship.. frankly, I always had long hair. It was never a concern of mine. But for many of my sisters, it is, after all, it’s our crowning glory. Black women have always been guilty of false glory because they are adorning their heads with someone else’s beauty. How do we get our own vision? By nourishing our own glory and owning it. I know we own our cars, clothes, or even homes but we must hold our hair. We must be thankful and take care of what the Most High gave us. The hair texture closely associated with European straight hair is considered almost heavenly good and esteemed most attractive. This straight hair blows in the wind, cascading down the back, smooth to the touch, and easy to comb.
Is this perfection? How can this hair be the best? Willie Lynch is to blame for this one dividing and conquering the slaves based on hair texture. But who says this is true? The fault lies with the mother who never taught the daughter the beauty of her hair. The world has brought into this lie, pure and simple for some, there is no turning back from this theory. In West Africa, Nigeria to be specific the boys and young girls cut their hair off not to deal with the texture and opt to wear wigs. While in the United States, black women are literally tearing their hair out of their heads through the wearing of the weave so they can slang it back and forth. The ignorance of our people is undoubtedly devastating to know that something that was created with sheer brilliance is a beast of pardon to many.
My conversation with a random woman I encountered at a boutique.
Woman: Girl you got some excellent hair —
Me: All hair is good. Woman: I wish my hair were long and pretty like yours. You’re so cute.
Me: Your hair is pretty.
Woman: But not like yours
Me: You know that is a fallacy created by our people that goes back to slavery. There is no right or bad hair. The Most High created all hair and it’s good hair. (That comment left her speechless and puzzled there was no reply)
The contemptuous terms such as ‘good hair’ or ‘bad hair’ came out of the era of slavery, during the Willie Lynch period. Where slaves were put into groups according to the lightness of skin and hair textures the closer your hair was to Caucasian hair the better you were perceived which meant you would be considered “a house negro” and receive preferential treatment than the darker slaves. Our hair is our crowning glory; there are various textures of hair that black people have due to genetics and racial mixing. These textures vary from 3A to 4D, beautiful to tightly curled.
3 a – fine curl pattern
3 b – medium curl pattern
3 c – loose curly pattern
4a – thicker curly pattern
4b – thicker medium pattern
4c – medium curly pattern
4d – excessively tighter curls
COMMON THINGS SPOKEN ABOUT HAIR TYPE 3A – 4C:
Coily Hair
You need to straighten it, unkept! Do something with your hair. It is nappy, you look ugly, and you need a weave, go and rectify it. I like you better with straight hair.
Permed Hair
If you don’t love yourself, go natural! Trying to be something you are not.
Curly Hair
You have some good hair. It is too wild and needs to be straight. What are you mixed with?
Straight Hair
Ideal with the masses, the universal standard of hair beauty.
Facts about black hair:
It keeps you cool and protects you from the sun.
Our hair is our crowning glory; there are many textures of hair that black people have due to genetics and interracial rations.
There is more money spent on hair care around the world than products to actually make the hair grow.
There is no such thing as bad hair, the strains of our hair were created by the Most High, and trust me, he knew what He was doing in creation but through colonization and the media which suggests that long bone straight flowing hair is most attractive.
We as people have bought into that “Lie” Yes I said it, that lie because that is what it is. You have been brainwashed into thinking that excessively curly or wooly hair isn’t as good as straight hair.
The Savior of this world has wooly hair.
My nation is so ignorant, of how they talk about their hair. All hair is good. Embrace your wool.
I was taught I had terrible hair, so I relaxed it and added weave now I am bald-headed — Brittany (a 31-year-old black woman)
I wish my parents would have taught me that my hair wasn’t bad — Erica Wilson (18-year-old female)
There is nothing better than a black woman that wears her natural hair — Jonathan (white male married to a black woman)
Often people ask me if my hair is real because it’s thick and long.
Male Store clerk: Is all that hair yours?
Me: Yes
Male Store clerk: Can I touch it?
Today in 2018, I walk proudly with my hair covered sometimes, it gives the mystery of what is underneath. Is it short or is it long? In late 18th century Louisiana, black women were ordered to cover their hair in public. This system was called the “Bando du Buen Gobierno,” “Edict for Good Government.” These rules were meant to change certain so-called “unacceptable” behaviors of free black women. specifically overly ostentatious hairstyles,(designed to impress or attract notice) which drew the attention of white men, and the jealousy of white women. These rules are called the “Tignon Laws” A tignon (pronounced “yon”) is a headdress. They are still doing this today! Where a lot of people go on interviews and are turned away because of their natural hair, The employers say they must straighten their hair. But finally, we are waking back up to our beauty! They even fear our hair!
When wearing a weave or perming your hair, you are playing roulette with your hair, please handle it with care. — Diane (my hairdresser)
ALL HAIR IS GOOD!
LITTLE GIRL IN THE STORE: Look at her hair Mom. LITTLE GIRL’S MOM: That is a weave. ME: No, it’s my hair.
It is a mere fact that we women that have long natural hair like me that grow out of our heads, always manage to get a hater or naysayers that believe that our hair is not real. In a society with all the fakers, weave wearers, and wig junkies it makes it hard for those of us that like to keep it real. It is also true that we were conditioned through slavery to hate ourselves and the texture of our hair so we commit our scalps to abusive chemicals and hair that did not grow from our scalp. The truth of the matter is that all hair is good, the creator of all made it. This hate is correlated with the term “Texturism.”
Good Hair (we have it.)
Reference: The Brown Girl Dilemma Book, 2017
Where faith, history, and truth illuminate the Black experience.
THE BROWN GIRL DILEMMA 